1. Wash rice well. Heat oil in a heavy or nonstick pan or wok. Add onions and fry till dark brown. Remove onions and set aside, but reserve the oil in the pan.
2. In the same oil, stir-fry cumin, peppercorns and bay leaf for a few seconds.
3. Add the rice to the frying pan. Add sugar, stir gently, fry till rice is light brown. Add cinnamon and cloves, and stir. Add the water and bring to the boil.
4. Simmer on low heat and cover until rice is cooked and the water evaporates. Rice should not be sticky when finished. Sprinkle onions on top then serve.